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THE IMPROVED 



^ranto-^mmtatt ^ orra 



Patented July io, 1883. 
Improved August 15, 1884. 



AN ADJUSTABLE INSTRUMENT AND PERFECTED 

METHOD FOR DRAUGHTING, CUTTING, AND 

FITTING DRESSES AND ALL INSIDE 

AND OUTSIDE GARMENTS. 



INSTRUCTION IN ITS USE. 






G. M. GREENWOOD & CO.. 

General Agents, 
BOSTON, MASS. 





884. 






Entered, according to Act of Congress in the Office of the Librarian of 
Congress, 1884, by E. A. Marston. 



To Our Patrons and the Public. 



At an outlay of many thousands of dollars, and after years 
of painstaking study, — a study that would be far from com- 
plete had we not thoroughly investigated every invention and 
system for cutting dresses which was available, and that only 
in an honest spirit of investigation that set aside all prejudices, 
and allowed us to acknowledge what was good and detect 
what was false, and after we had learned the experiences of 
many professional dressmakers who had tried all these sys- 
tems, charts, and machines, and found them uncertain, de- 
ficient, and often valueless, — we put before ourselves the 
task to produce a method of dress-cutting that would be at 
once simple, thorough, artistic, and reliable ; one that, having 
science for its basis and merit for its recommendation, would 
eventually repay us for time and expense borne in its getting 
up. Such an instrument we now have in the Improved 
Franco-American Form, and to the ladies of our country 
we offer it, confident that it will do its work thoroughly and 
well. 

Respectfully yours, 

G. M. GREENWOOD & CO. 



General Rules. 



See that your tape-measures are correct; never use one that 
is stretched or shrunken. 

Before draughting, see that all the buttons are loosened 
before, and firmly fastened again as each piece is adjusted. 

Extreme care must be taken that no part of your clothing 
or person brushes against or disturbs the Form : the slightest 
change of position will destroy the fitting. 

Observe well the effects of your measurements, and accustom 
yourself to accuracy and uniformity in taking measures. Re- 
member, the Form draughts exact and mechanically to your 
figures, and will give you just what you have measured for. 

Before draughting go over the instrument, and make certain 
that every part is properly adjusted, scaled, and fastened. 

Never try on or fit over a waist, basque, etc. 

Take time ; master one thing at a time. Baste carefully, 
and be accurate when using your tracing-wheel. 

With a careful study of the rules here given, and a deter- 
mination to do nothing halfway or imperfectly, there is no 
obstacle to your becoming a successful and artistic cutter. 



THE IMPROVED 



Franco-American Form, 



Adjustable to every size and figure, requires but three MEASURES, viz. : — 
I, Shoulder Measure ; 2, Under- Arm Measure ; 3, Waist Measure. 



DIRECTIONS FOR MEASUREMENTS. 

1. Shoulder Measure.— With the left hand, hold the 
end of the tape exactly on the prominent bone on the back 
of the neck; with the right hand, pass the tape over the 
front of the shoulder, under the arm, and over the shoulder- 
blade, drawing it firmly and snugly up to the first point of 
measurement at the back of the neck. The tape must touch 
the hollow of the arm distinctly, and the arm must be allowed 
to hang down naturally while the measure is being taken. 
This measure governs the neck, shoulder, bust, and back, 
and should be taken extremely tight. 

2. Under- Ann Measure.— This determines the length 
of waist as well as length under arm, and requires the 
greatest care and accuracy. Place the end of the tape close 
up under the arm with the ar?n down, and measure only down 
to the smallest part of the waist, taking care not to make it 
too long ; for if the waist is cut too long it is spoiled, but if 
cut too short it can easily be remedied. This is always with 
the understanding that the waist is made in Basque form ; 
with a round waist of course the case is reversed. In taking 
this measure care must be taken to see that the tape touches 
the hollow of the arm distinctly. 

3. Waist Measure.— Pass the tape tightly around the 
waist, always avoiding measuring over watch-chains, belts, etc 

The taking of measures requires skill and practice ; the 
accuracy with which they are taken alone insures a perfect fit. 

Note. — It is well to examine the figure of the person whose measure 
is being taken, note if there are any striking differences in the height of 
shoulders, length under arm and size of hip, and if such differences exist 
draught for both sides, or for the larger side if wadding is to be used to 
make up the figure. 



Draughting a Basque. 



BACK OF BASQUE OR WAIST. 

By the Franco- American Form the Back is draughted first. 

The pieces marked from 12 to 18, inclusive, constitute the 
back of Form. Observe the figures in the illustration, and 
put the parts together as there indicated, sliding one upon 
another. 

To mark out a Basque, take for example the measurements 
of a medium size, viz.: — 

Shoulder measure . . . 22 inches 



Under-arm measure ... j\ 



Waist measure .... 24 " 

Lay the Form on the cloth or lining, having No. 16 parallel 
to the selvedge one or two inches from the edge for an ordin- 
ary waist, or so much out as to allow for fullness in cutting a 
Basque, Polonaise, etc. (The Form can be slanted, if de- 
sired.) 

Loosen all the buttons, and fasten firmly again as each 
piece is adjusted. 

Set the outer edge (sewing-line) of No. 16 to 22 on the 
scale of No. 14. Set the lower edge (cutting-line) of No. 13 
to 22 on the scale of No. 16. Set the i| inch line of No. 13 
to the outer edge of No. 16 (this to secure width of neck). 
See that No. 13 sets straight across No. 16, and let No. 12 
lay naturally, being fastened down closely at the lower end 
of slot in 14 a No. 12 thus comes naturally into position, the 
lower edge and point of No. 13 touching at 7 on shoulder- 
seam scale (i.e., of No. 12). 

Make a note of the number of inches or fractions thereof 
on the scale of No. 12 where it is crossed by No. 13, as this 
gives you the length of shoulder-seam back and front — and 



THE FRANCO-AMERICAN FORM. 



you must remember the figure, in order to set No. 2 for 
shoulder length, when draughting the front. 

Note. — No. 2 front and No. 12 back correspond; they are scaled in 
inches, and give the length of shoulder seam. The pupil will bear in mind 
that there is a marked difference between the terms "length of shoulder,'''' 
and " length of shoulder seam.'''' Nature forms one ; fashion, the other. 

Now set the lower edge of No. 15 to 7^ (that being the 
under-arm measure) on the scale of No. 16 a - Set the upper 
end of No. 17 to the end of slot in arm-circle, its point at 
left side touching at 1 on the scale of arm-circle ; then if the 
desired width of back at waist-line is ij inches, set the lower 
left side of No. 17 to if on the scale of No. 15, and slant 
No. 17 a to the left for desired fullness of Basque (for ordinary 
figures at about the same angle as that of No. 17, reversing). 

Note. — As the piece No. 17 allows for seams £ inch wide, the mechan- 
ism of the Form requires that \ inch be added to the width allowed at 
center of back on waist line ; thus : If the center of back is to be i£ inches 
wide, set the left side of No. 17 to i\ on the scale of No. 15 ; if two inches 
wide, then at i\ on the scale of No. 15 ; and so on. This gives the position 
of No. 17 for both center of back and back side pieces. As the cutter 
draughts on the left of No. 17 for cutting-line for back, and on the right of 
No. 17 for cutting-line on side pieces, back, £ of an inch is thus allowed 
for seams. 



DRAUGHTING BACK. 

Mark on both sides of No. 12 (to cut and sew by), and on 
the sewing-line side of No. 16, beginning at lower side of 
No. 13, and continuing as far as the lower side of No. 15. If 
much fullness is desired, mark from this point to the selvedge 
at the bottom of the Basque in a regular slant. Mark, also, 
across lower side of No. 13. Also, mark by the heavy line of 
arm-circle from the point where cutting (upper) line of No. 12 
ends, to the lower left-hand point where No. 17 ends (at arm- 
circle), and continue down the left side of Nos. 17 and 17 a as 
long as may be desired ; also, mark on the wider side of No. 



DRAUGHTING A BASQUE. 



15, to serve as a guide. This forms the middle of back; 
having marked it out, remove the Form to another part of 
the cloth for side pieces. 

Note. — After removing the Form, take your chalk, pencil, or tracing- 
wheel and finish out all lines where spaces have been left by the intersec- 
tion of the pieces, curving where the lines go to form angles at waist line ; 
this, to avoid angles. 

SIDE-PIECE BACK. 

See that all the pieces occupy the same position as used in 
draughting the back. Now set No. 18 to 4 on the scale of 
the arm-circle (see Table of Proportions, last page of book), 
and the inside edge (sewing-line) of No. 18 to 4 on the scale 
of No. 15. Swing No. 18 a to the left, for fullness of hip, if a 
Basque. Nos. 15, 16, and 17 will occupy the same position 
as when draughting middle of back ; the right-hand side of 
No. 17 crossing No. 15 at the scale of ij inch. Swing No. 
17 a slightly to the right, inclining toward No. 16. 



DRAUGHTING SIDE PIECE. 

Mark all around both sides of Nos. 18 and i8, a and on the 
right-hand side of Nos. 17 and 17 a - Mark in arm-circle from 
upper point of No. 17 to lower point of No. 18, dotting at 
sewing-line on No. 18 for a guide ; also, mark across lower 
side of No. 15, to serve as a guide. Remove the Form, and 
finish out all lines where spaces occur through intersection of 
parts of the Form. 

CUTTING OUT AND BASTING. 

The heavy lines are to cut by, the broken lines to sew by. 
Having gone over your work with your tracing-wheel, now 
cut by all heavy lines. Cut J inch out from No. 16, as that 
gives the sewing-line alone. 



TT4WFFTWFFT 




SECTION SHOWING FRONT AND FRONT SIDE-PIECE. 



DRAUGHTING A BASQUE. 



The lines formed by Nos. 17 and 17 s are cutting-lines ; sew 
J inch in, as that is what they allow. Sew by line of No. 16, 
curving in slightly where the back hollows. 

In sewing side-pieces, take the two edges of the cloth 
exactly together, begin at arm-circle, and sew carefully on the 
lines given. Three stitches to the inch are generally given 
in basting. 

FRONT OF BASQUE. 

The pieces marked from No. 1 to No. 9, inclusive, constitute 
the front of the Franco-American Form. 

No. 10 is the adjustable dart, and is used in cutting one 
or more darts, as required. 

Having put the pieces together as indicated by the figures 
in the illustration, lay the Form on the cloth or lining, with 
Nos. 6 and 7 next to the selvedge. Slide No. 2 down until 
the lower edge (sewing-line) touches 22 on the scales of Nos. 
1 and 3 ; the lower /<?/?-hand corner of the brass slide coming 
exactly to the line marked 22 on No. 1 ; the lower right-ha.n& 
corner of the slide on No. 3. 

Now slide No. 3 out on No. 2 until the cutting (or heavy) 
line of No. 3 touches at 7 on the scale of No. 2. 

Note. — It will be remembered that in draughting the back, instruction 
was given to make a note of the number of inches on the scale of No. 12 
where it was crossed by No. 13, as that gave the length of shoulder-seam. 

Set No. 6 so that the outside edge shall come exactly to 
the line 22 on the scale of No. 4. 

Place No. 5 so that the lower edge shall be at the line 
l\ (under-arm measure) on the scale of No. 6 a - This gives 
the length of waist under arm, but not in front : the bottom 
of the waist in front is generally from one-half to two inches 
lower than under the arm. The position of the darts allow 
for this variation. 

Note. — In cutting a round waist attention must be given to these 
facts. 



12 



THE FRANCO-AMERICAN FORM. 



Next, place the upper end of No. 8 so that the left-hand 
point will be at 4 on the small scale above the slot in arm- 
circle (see Table of Proportions, "Arm-Circle Front "), and 
bring the /^/?-hand edge (sewing-line) to 12 on the scale of 
No. 5 (see Table of Proportions — " Front will be "). Now 
bring No. 8 a close up to the lower edge of No. 5, swinging it 
out from two to four inches at lower end for fullness of Basque. 
Set the upper end of No. 9 (under-arm dart) to the left of the 
slot, and fasten, letting it hang nearly parallel to No. 8. 

No. 9, the under-arm dart should always have its 
upper end fastened at a point in the slot in a line over the 
center of the width to be given on No. 5, and in marking 
should be swung right and left as needed. 

No. 10 dart will be set with the index-point between 
2 and 3 (the scale on dart where the indicator points gives 
width, in inches, of the dart at waist line). Draw the lower 
parts down until the whole length of the opening is eleven 
inches; then close it at lower end, and fasten all the buttons 
securely. The lower end can be widened if required, as where 
greater length is needed. Place the dart (No. 10) on the 
Form, setting it accurately in the angle formed by the lower 
edge of No. 4, and inside edge of No. 6 ; set snug in (this 
where straight dart is wanted), and see that the widest part 
of dart is about one-quarter inch below the lower line of No. 5, 
and that No. 9 is half way between the sewi/ig-Ymes of No. 10 
and No. 8. This is the French (one dart) system, and gives 
a more elegant fit to the waist than any other. Some ladies, 
however, being accustomed to the American (or two darts) 
system, may still prefer it. For this, see directions under the 
head of Darts. 

No. 7 must be swung out from No. 6 — as in the illustra- 
tion — more or less, according to the fullness of the abdomen, 
and the additional width thus given must be taken out in one 
or other of the darts. 



DRAUGHTING A BASQUE. 13 



DRAUGHTING FRONT. 

In using the Form remember that the heavy lines are to 
cut by ; the broken lines to sew by. You will notice that 
some of the pieces will thus be marked on both sides, some 
not at all ; for instance, Nos. 2, 8, and 9 are marked on both 
sides, to be draughted accordingly. 

The darts are marked only to sew by ; Nos. i, 4, and 5 are 
not marked at all, although it is well, for convenience, in case 
the Form should accidently be displaced on the cloth while 
marking, to draw a line under No. 5, and also short lines 
making the angle where No. 1 joins No. 4, to serve as gauges 
and starting-points. 

As the length of the Basque is a matter of taste, it may be 
cut any desired length below the waist. The dart No. 10 
will be continued to the bottom of Basque, according to the 
lines indicated. Some forms require nearly as wide a dart 
below the waist-line as above it ; but more require less. 

Mark with a pencil or chalk on the cloth close to those 
edges where heavy or broken lines appear; also across the 
lower side of No. 5, and in the angle formed by Nos. 1 and 
4, as before instructed. 

Mark No. 9 on both sides, sliding it at waist-line, to 
secure the. required width, — in this instance \\ inches, — and 
dotting at the lower edges of No. 5 for the continuing lines ; 
which, however, need not be marked until the Form is taken 
up. Mark, also, inside No. 10, for dart. 

To give the swell to tlie front, place the straight- 
edge (inch rule) at the outside edge of No. 6 at the neck 
curve; carry it out in a slant one-half inch, or as needed from 
No. 6 where crossed by No. 4 ; then slant back from the same 
point on No. 4 to the point where No. 7 slants out from No. 
6. It is always advisable to mark for a swell, and if not 
wanted it can be turned away. 

The front line of Basque is turned away, not faced ; re- 
member this, and allow when cutting. 



THE FRANCO-AMERICAN FORM. 



After removing the Form, with your pencil continue all the 
lines where spaces have been left by the intersection of the 
pieces, always giving a slight curve when approaching the 
waist-line, as no figure has acute angles here. 

No. 9 is finished by carrying it down about five inches, 
for ordinary sizes, in two straight lines, beginning at the lower 
edge of No. 5, and meeting in a point at bottom of Basque. 
The continuation and curves or straight lines to be given to 
this dart depends entirely on the figure you are fitting; some 
figures requiring more swell or curve than others. Practice 
and a study of the human form will alone enable the cutter 
in this, as in many other branches of dress-making, ever to be- 
come every way proficient. 

CUTTING AND BASTING FRONT. 

Go over all lines with your tracing-wheel, being careful to 
trace on the lines, as the slightest deviation will disturb the 
perfection of fit. Cut by the heavy lines. No. 9 (under-arm 
dart) should be cut down through the center, not left to be 
joined in the whole piece, and in sewing must have the sew- 
ing lines matched evenly together, joining at arm-circle, from 
which point sew down. 

Note. — It will be seen that the guiding-line you have traced under 
No. 5 is carried higher on the under-arm piece than on the front; this is 
intentional, and gives the natural slant required by the anatomy of the 
human form. In draughting a round waist, Newmarket, or long garment, 
this is not followed, but allowed for. 

Take the two edges of the cloth and sew on seam lines, 
beginning at arm-circle. The utmost care must be taken 
when basting ; the cloth must be kept even and smooth; the 
stitches straight and regular; no gathers, etc., allowed. In 
joining the front and back, begin at neck-curve. 

DARTS. 
The width of Back determines how large the Darts must be. 



DRAUGHTING A BASQUE. I 5 

As the whole waist-measure is given in the Fronts (one-half on 
each front), it follows that the extra size allowed by the back 
must be taken up in the darts. Thus : if the Back is 4 the 
darts must take up 4 inches ; i. e. 2\ on the front dart, and 
1 J on the under-arm dart. If the back is 5, then the darts 
must take up 5 inches also, 3 J on the front, and i| on the side, 
etc. 

AMERICAN SYSTEM. 

The French one-dart system having been given in the lesson 
on draughting front, the reader is referred there for it. 

In cutting two darts, the American System, it is to be re- 
membered that the same number of inches allowed for the 
single dart is to be divided between the two. 

The space to be allowed between front seam and 
line of front dart can be varied to suit the taste of the cutter ; 
from 1 to 2 inches is the ordinary width. The scale on 
No. 5 is used as a guide in arranging such spaces. Set the 
left-hand sewing-line of dart (widest part of opening) on the 
scale of No. 5 (slightly below that piece), at the exact number 
of inches that it is desired the dart shall be from the front at 
waist-line, thus: if one inch space is desired, then the left- 
hand {sewing) line of No. 10 will just touch at 1 on the scale 
of No. 5 ; if two inches, then at 2 ; if two and one-half inches, 
then at 2 J ; and so on. 

For the position of upper point of dart, the line formed by 
center of hinge on No. 6 a governs the setting. Mark a 
straight line out from that point from i| to 2 inches, and see 
that the top point of opening in No. 10 touches at that line. 

For the second dart the space is arranged in the same way as 
for the front dart, with the exception that the measure for 
space between the two is taken from the right-hand line 
draughted in front dart, thus : if the ieft-haxid. line at waist- 
line of front dart was set at i\ on the scale of No. 5, the 
width of the dart being ij inches, then the right-hand line of 
the front dart will be ij x *i = 2 i inches — the line at which 



DRAUGHTING A BASQUE. 1 7 



it will be found on No. 5. Now, if one-half inch space is 
wanted between the front and second darts, then the /^/"/-hand 
{sewing) line of the second dart will be at 3^ inches on the 
scale of No. 5 ; its right-hand line (if the width of dart is \\ 
inches) will be at 4J inches on the scale of No. 5. 

In the arrangement of these spaces the Form is entirely 
mechanical, and no error can occur except through inattention 
of the person draughting. The upper point of the second 
dart will always be properly placed by setting No. 10 parallel 
with the front dart, its upper outside edge touching close up 
to the lower edge of No. 4. This will give the necessary 
elevation to the second dart, as in all instances it is carried 
higher up than the front dart. Bear well in mind that the 
two darts should always be parallel to one another, having 
the same angles and curves. 

It is now seen how No. 10 is adjustable for every style of 
dart ; and while it is at the discretion of the cutter to curve or 
slant these darts to his or her taste, yet we would advise that 
this be done in rare instances, and only when the symmetry 
of the figure being fitted will be improved by so doing ; for 
general purposes the straight dart, or that having but a slight 
incline, is preferable. 

SLEEVE FORM. 

As the sleeve is entirely independent of the waist in its pro- 
portions, form, and style, it requires more measures. While 
the waist, in order to be symmetrical, must preserve certain 
proportions, which are calculated in the Franco-American 
Form, the sleeve may vary almost indefinitely to suit the pre- 
vailing mode or the taste of the wearer. It may be loose or 
tight, long or short, straight or flowing, or plain coat sleeve. 
Therefore to fit the sleeve to the arm, to the waist, and also 
to the taste, take the following measures : — 

1. From the shoulder, at the end of the back form, to the 
point of the elbow. 



THE FRANCO-AMERICAN FORM. 



2. From elbow to wrist, the desired length. 

3. Around the wrist. 

4. Around the largest part of the fore-arm. 

5. Around the upper arm, as close up under the arm as 
possible. (Not from the top of shoulder, but out from the 
under-arm line.) 

6. From a point in the center of fifth measure to the top 
of shoulder as high as desired. 

To take this measure on the person, place the tape at top 
of shoulder, and measure down to the line where the tape 
passes around the arm. 

Observe the figures in the illustration, and connect the 
pieces as there shown — Nos. 1 and 1 a to the right, and Nos. 
2 and 2 a to the left. It will be observed that Nos. 1 and 2 
are scaled in inches, while Nos. i a and 2 a are left blank. 
Nos. 3, 4, and 5 are scaled in half inches, the object for which 
will be apparent when you come to adjust the measures. 



EXAMPLE. 

If the 1st measure (length of upper arm) be 12 inches, 
The 2d measure (length of forearm) 8 inches, 
The 3d measure (wrist) 8 inches, 
The 4th measure (forearm) 10 inches, 
The 5th measure (upper arm) 12 inches, and 
The 6th measure (from 5th measure to top of shoulder) 
3 inches, 

Set the Form, having Nos. i a and 2 a nearest to you. Slide 
No. 5 on No. 1 until its heavy line touches at 12 (length of 
upper arm) on the scale of No. 1 ; then slide No. 1 down on 
No. 2 until its right-hand end touches 8 (length of forearm) 
on that piece. Set the heavy line {right-hand side) of No. 3 
to the line of the first inch just above the shield on No. 2 ; 
the /<f//-hand edge of No. 3 will then be at 1 on the scale of 
No. 2. Slide No. 4 until its heavy line crosses at 8 (length 



DRAUGHTING A BASQUE. 19 

of forearm) on the scale of No. 2. The lower end of No. 1 
and the edge of No. 4 thus join on the line of 8, scale of No. 
2. No. 4 will lay nearly straight across from No. 2 a » inclin- 
ing slightly to the right. Slide No. 1 a until its lower end 
touches No. 4 on No. 2 a ; now set No. 3, with its heavy edge, 
close to shield on No. 2 a , and see that No. 5 rests on No. 1 a 
straight across from No. 1. 

To ootain the widtli of sleeve, set Nos. 3, 4, and 5 — 
according to the measures taken — thus : Bring the inside edge 
f heavy line) of No. 2 to 8 (wrist-measure) on the scale of 
No. 3, and to 10 (measure around forearm) on the scale of 
No. 4, and the inside edge (heavy line) of No. 1 to 12 (meas- 
ure around upper arm) on the scale of No. 5. 

Note. — As the instrument now lays, you have the exact adjustment 
for length of forearm and upper arm ; and in width of sleeve, what would 
be an exact half if the upper and under sides were to be alike ; but it is 
necessary that the upper side shall be wider than the under side, and to 
secure this the instrument must be widened to draught the upper side, 
and contracted to draught the under side ; the number of inches added to 
increase the one must be deducted when draughting the other — this to 
preserve the measurements. 

Now carry No. 2 two spaces, i. e., to 10 on the scale of No. 3, 
and two spaces, i. e. y to 12 on the scale of No. 4 ; also advance 
No. 1 three spaces, i.e., to 15 on the scale of No. 5. See that 
No. 5 sets straight across on No. 1 a to No. 1, that No. 3 
(heavy line) touches on lower inch-line, as before directed, on 
No. 2, and just above the shield on No. 2 a ; No. 3 having a 
slant as shown in cut, and the other parts about the same 
positions as there shown (omitting the curve piece No. 6). 
Take the Form by the two ends of No. 1 a and No. 2 a , and 
gently draw the whole form into shape for the curve you 
desire to give the sleeve — just slightly more curve than shown 
in illustration. Draw the Form close toward the edges of the 
cloth, allowing space for seams and draught. 

DRAUGHTING SLEEVE. 
Mark by heavy line of Nos. 1 and 2 (inside edge); by 



20 THE FRANCO-AMERICAN FORM. 

right-hand edge of No. 3 and heavy line (left hand) of Nos. 
4 and 5 ; also along the lower edge (heavy line) of Nos. 1 a and 
2 a . Remember that the lines draughted by Nos. 1 and 2, 
i a and 2 a , are sewing-lines. Remove the Form, and mark 
with your pencil on all spaces where broken lines occur 
through intersection of the pieces. Now take your straight- 
edge, and mark a dot exactly halfway on the line draughted 
by No. 5 ; this will be at 7! inches for the present example. 
From this point measure up three inches (or whatever may 
have been your sixth measure), and mark a point for top of 
sleeve (for a high sleeve five inches will be required). Now 
take the curve-piece No. 6, place a pin through the eyelet- 
hole, and fasten it at the point you have marked for top of 
sleeve. Swing the end of curve-piece toward you down, until 
its outside edge touches the end of the line of No. 5 at No. 
1 a ; mark from the eyelet to that point ; then swing the other 
end of curve-piece until it touches again at the lines of No. 5 
and No. 1, and mark from eyelet to that point. This gives 
you the upper side of sleeve. Remove No. 6, and proceed to 
draught for the under side. 

Take the Form at the same adjustments as you had it when 
draughting the upper side of sleeve. Bring the inside edge 
of Nos. 1 and 2, to 6, 8, and 9 on the respective scales of 
Nos. 3, 4, 5. Set your instrument over the pattern for top of 
sleeve so as to adjust the curve, which must be the same ; let 
the wrist remain unchanged, or only varied slightly. Turn 
the cloth the other side up, place the Form upon it, and 
draught as before. Remove the Form, take No. 6 and place 
it with the arrow-point at the line of Nos. i a and 5, carrying 
the curve over to the other line of Nos. 1 and 5, and then 
draught. 

BASTING SLEEVE. 

The lines given by the instrument are sewing-lines ; seams 
must be allowed for. A very narrow seam is always to be pre- 



DRAUGHTING A BASQUE. 21 

ferred, as it does not interfere with the set of the sleeve. Too 
much care cannot be given to the basting and setting in ; 
practice and the making of the subject a careful study, alone 
lead to proficiency. 

FRENCH SLEEVE. 

To draught a French sleeve, one with a seam to elbow, 
follow the adjustments for both upper and under side in all 
particulars, as given in the preceding lesson — with this ex- 
ception, that having draughted the upper side, the instru- 
ment being now adjusted for the under side, is to be taken 
and turned over ; the inside edge of No. i is to be laid over 
the lines draughted for No. i of the upper side, touching at 
the point where No. 5 joins No. 1 on the upper side ; then 
allowed to come slightly within the line on upper side of sleeve 
curving out, and leaving the upper side of sleeve about one 
inch above the line marked where No. 4 touched on No. 2, 
thus giving a V shape to the space left between what, when 
draughted, will be the sewing-lines of No. 2 upper side and 
No. 2 under side of sleeve. In basting, the two ends of 
sleeve at wrist should be matched, and sewed evenly, gather- 
ing about two or two and one-half inches at elbow. 

In arranging the width for upper and under side of sleeve, 
it is well to make the under side very narrow, as this gives a 
better appearance, and even a better-fitting sleeve. 

In taking the measures around the arm, bear in mind that 
they must be taken very loosely, as the sleeve makes up very 
much smaller than would seem probable. For instance : if 
the wrist-measure is eight inches, that is in reality the measure 
of the hand, as it must be large enough for the hand to pass 
through easily ; then if the hand can easily pass through the 
tape held at 8 inches it will be found very tight for a finished 
sleeve, and almost impossible to pull off. One inch should be 
allowed in every nine inches where the measures are taken 
only sufficiently loose for the arm or hand to slip through 
easily. 



22 THE FRANCO-AMERICAN FORM. 

When you wish to flare the top of sleeve, to fit a high 
shoulder and narrow under part, take No. 5 b and apply it to 
the upper part of No. i, laying it with scale side down, the 
end with brass slide resting on No. i, and the upper end 
curving out as much as desired. 

EXTENDING UNDER-ARM DART. 

To secure extra cloth when required for extra fullness of 
hip : Supposing the waist-measure to be 24 inches, and that 
2 J inches are required for the under-arm dart, the general 
rule allowing but i\ ; to obtain the additional inch : slide 
No. 8 one inch to the right, thus making the waist 13 instead 
of 12, and take the inch thus added out in the under-arm 
dart by making it 2\ inches. 

TO CARRY SHOULDER SEAM FORWARD. 

If it is desired to raise the shoulder-seam higher on the 
shoulder, then raise No. 12 in the slot, keeping the upper 
end quite stationary, and lower No. 2 on No. 3 to correspond. 
This is easily done by the scale on 14 a and on No. 3 (outside 
edge). 

CHANGES IN NECK CURVE. 

Occasionaly there are figures found more difficult than 
others to fit, particularly at the neck ; in such cases, after No. 2 
has been marked on both sides, swing the front part, which 
is the neck-curve, down the desired distance on No. 6. To 
insure exactness, another measure can be taken, as follows : — 
Place the tape across the chest, close under the arms, as 
in taking ordinary bust measure. From the point where it 
' crosses the middle of the chest, measure the number of inches 
to the neck, as high as may be desired, and swing the lower 
edge of the neck-curve to the corresponding number on the 



DRAUGHTING A BASQUE. 23 



scale of No. 6. Thus, if the measure be four inches from 
the bust-line to the neck, place the lower edge of No. 2 to 4 
on No. 6, and mark by the heavy line to cut by. 

Note. — Two curved pieces, No. 17, will be found in the box; the 
cutter can use her own taste which one to adopt. 

The two curved pieces 5 a and 5 b are used as waist extensions ; also 
for any purpose where curving is desired. 

In the event of any piece being lost or mislaid, send to the agent, stating 
the exact number of such piece, and it will be replaced at trifling cost. 



24 



THE FRANCO-AMERICAN FORM. 









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